Lash Taping Explained: Choosing Your Tape & Finding a Method That Works
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Taping is one of those parts of lash application that can look incredibly simple until you meet a client whose lower lashes refuse to cooperate. Eye shape, lower lash length, skin movement, watery eyes and even the way a client closes their eyes can change what works from one appointment to another.
There isn't one perfect taping method for every client. The goal is much simpler than that. The lower lashes need to remain safely isolated from the upper lashes, the client needs to remain comfortable, and your tape or eye pad needs to stay where you put it. Good taping can make the rest of the set considerably easier. When the lower lashes are secure and your eye pad isn't moving, you can concentrate on isolation, attachment and the set itself rather than continually stopping to adjust your setup.
Why Taping Matters
The primary purpose of under-eye taping is to keep the lower lashes safely separated from the upper lashes throughout application. A secure setup also creates a cleaner working area and can improve access around difficult inner and outer corners.
This becomes particularly important with very short lower lashes. They can be surprisingly stubborn and easy to miss, sometimes only becoming obvious once they begin escaping from underneath a pad or finding their way into the working area.
Taping doesn't need to be complicated to work well. A simple, reliable method that stays secure for the appointment can be far more useful than an elaborate technique that needs continual adjustment.
Choosing Your Lash Tape
Lash tapes can look very similar on the roll while behaving quite differently around the eye. The backing, thickness, flexibility and adhesive characteristics influence how easily a tape conforms to the under-eye area, how securely it holds and how it feels during removal.
Keeping more than one type available gives you the option to adapt your setup to the client rather than expecting one tape to perform every job.
Japanese Nichiban Tape
Japanese Nichiban tape is a popular option among lash artists who prefer a thin, precise tape for detailed under-eye work. Its fine profile makes it useful for catching smaller sections of lower lashes, reinforcing an eye pad and working around inner and outer corners without creating significant bulk.
It is worth knowing that Nichiban is a manufacturer rather than the name of one single tape material. Nichiban produces different medical tapes with different backing constructions, including non-woven and paper-based products. For this reason, it is always worth checking the specifications of the particular Nichiban tape you purchase rather than assuming every roll has the same composition.
For lash application, the appeal is largely in its lightweight, controlled working feel. Artists who prefer a softer or more cushioned tape around the under-eye area may prefer another option for some clients.
Micropore Paper Tape
Micropore is often used almost interchangeably with "paper tape" within the beauty industry, but Micropore is actually a 3M product name. Traditional Micropore belongs to the broader category of paper surgical tapes.
Paper tape is lightweight, breathable, relatively thin and easy to tear into smaller sections. These characteristics make it useful for reinforcing eye pads, catching individual lower lashes and taping back upper lash layers when required.
It is also a useful general-purpose tape to keep in the studio. The more distinctly paper-like construction can feel firmer than softer sensitive-skin tapes, however, and the level of adhesion varies between individual products. This is one reason an artist may prefer different tapes for different jobs rather than looking for a single universal option.
Sensitive Lash Tape
Sensitive lash tape sits somewhere differently again. Rather than the distinctly papery feel of traditional Micropore, this style of tape is soft and flexible, allowing it to conform comfortably around the eye while providing enough adhesion to help keep lower lashes and eye pads secure.
This is the style I personally prefer for my three-piece taping method. I like a tape that moulds easily around the under-eye area, stays where I place it and can be removed cleanly without unnecessarily pulling at fine hairs. The softer backing also makes it easy to manipulate around the inner, middle and outer sections of the eye.
Our Audrey Jay Sensitive Lash Tape was selected around these working characteristics and is the tape I use throughout my own sets. Rather than relying on particularly aggressive adhesion, the goal is secure placement, flexibility and comfortable removal.
Foam Tape
Foam tape is considerably thicker than the other options and provides a soft, cushioned working surface. Wider medical foam tapes can be cut to follow the individual shape of the client's under-eye area and, depending on the particular tape and artist's technique, can be used as an alternative to a conventional eye pad.
The ability to customise its shape can make foam particularly useful when standard pre-cut eye pads don't sit comfortably around a client's eye anatomy. Its thickness also creates a very different working surface from paper or sensitive lash tape.
That thickness is also its main trade-off. Artists who prefer a very fine under-eye setup may find foam bulky, and it generally requires more cutting and shaping before application. For the right client and technique, however, its cushioning and adaptability can make it a useful option to have available.
Four Ways To Tape The Lower Lashes
Just as there isn't one tape that suits every situation, there isn't one lower-lash taping method every artist needs to use. Lash length, eye shape and your own working preferences can all influence which method feels easiest.
These are four approaches worth understanding.
Method One: The AJ Three-Point Method
My own taping method developed from wanting the lower lashes to stay secure without continually adjusting the eye pad throughout the appointment. I use an eye pad together with three individual pieces of tape, working across the inner, middle and outer sections of the eye.
For medium to long lower lashes, I tuck the eye pad underneath the lower lashes rather than trying to trap all of them underneath it. The lower lashes sit over the pad, and I use the tape itself to secure them onto it.
I begin at the inner corner. The first piece follows the line of the eye pad and secures the inner lashes. The second piece secures the middle section, followed by a third piece across the outer section.
The Outer Corner Is The Important Part
I don't completely adhere the final piece of tape while the client's eye is open.
If you simply follow the position of the outer eye while it is open, the tape can sit slightly too high once the client closes their eye. You then need to lift the tape and adjust it, which not only interrupts your setup but can also reduce the adhesion of that piece.
Instead, I adhere the side of the tape closest to the centre of the eye while leaving the outer end just above the skin. I then ask the client to close their eyes.
With the eye in its actual working position, I can find the best line for the outer section and adhere the remaining tape once. This helps me achieve good placement without having to lift and reposition it afterwards, preserving as much of the tape's original adhesion as possible.
Once the eyes are closed, I check the entire setup. If I've accidentally caught any upper lashes underneath the tape, I simply release them before beginning the set.
Adapting The Method For Short Lower Lashes
Very short lower lashes are some of the most stubborn to secure because there is so little length available for the tape to catch.
For these clients, I change the relationship between the lashes and the eye pad. Instead of tucking the pad underneath the lower lashes, I place the pad over them so the short lashes are already being held down. I then reinforce the pad using the same three-piece pattern across the inner, middle and outer sections.
This gives those short lower lashes an additional layer of security and helps prevent the tiny lashes that are easiest to miss from escaping into the set and becoming caught in adhesive.
Method Two: Eye Pad With Two-Piece Taping
A simpler approach is to position the under-eye pad first and then use two smaller pieces of tape to catch any lower lashes the pad hasn't secured.
The pieces can be positioned across the inner and outer portions of the lower lash line, with the exact angle adjusted according to the client's lashes and eye shape. Some artists also use crossed or angled configurations. This method works particularly well when the eye pad has already captured the majority of the lower lashes and only a couple of areas require reinforcement. There is no reason to add more tape simply for the sake of following a particular method.
For clients with dense, short or unusually directed lower lashes, however, two pieces may not provide enough control. Adding another section or switching techniques may be more effective than continually repositioning the original tape.
Method Three: Eye Pad Under The Lower Lashes
Another approach is to intentionally position the eye pad underneath the lower lashes and then use tape over the lashes to secure them against the surface of the pad.
Rather than depending on the eye pad itself to capture every lower lash, the tape becomes responsible for securing the lashes while the pad provides the working surface underneath. This can be useful for longer lower lashes because there is enough length for the tape to hold securely against the pad. It also gives the artist more control over where those lashes sit.
Removal should always be gentle and deliberate because the tape is sitting over the natural lower lashes. Release each section carefully rather than pulling the entire setup away at once.
Method Four: Foam Tape Without An Eye Pad
For some clients, the easiest setup may be to skip the conventional eye pad altogether.
A wider piece of suitable foam tape can be cut into a curved shape that follows the client's under-eye area and positioned to isolate the lower lashes directly. Because the artist controls the shape, this method can be useful for eye shapes where standard pre-cut pads simply don't sit well.
The cushioned surface also creates a different feel underneath the eye, which some artists and clients may prefer.
Because foam is thicker than conventional paper or sensitive lash tape, it needs to be positioned carefully and kept safely away from the waterline. Artists who prefer a very thin working area may need some time to adjust to the additional thickness.
Always Check Your Taping With The Eyes Closed
Regardless of which method you use, your final check should happen once the client's eyes are completely closed.
The position of the eye and surrounding skin changes between looking upward and closing the eyes. Tape that appears perfectly positioned while the eye is open can move closer to the eye once it closes, particularly around the outer corner.
Check that the lower lashes are securely isolated, that no upper lashes have accidentally been caught, and that the client can comfortably close their eyes completely. Tape and eye pads should remain safely away from the waterline and should not cause rubbing or pressure against the eye.
That small check at the beginning of the appointment can save considerably more adjustment later.
Don't Overcomplicate Taping
Newer artists can easily feel as though they need to learn every advanced taping technique they see online. I don't think that should be the priority.
Learn to securely isolate the lower lashes with a straightforward method first. Once that foundation becomes comfortable, different taping techniques become additional tools you can reach for when a particular client or eye shape calls for them.
The same principle applies to becoming faster behind the tweezers. In Why Faster Lash Artists Aren't Necessarily Rushing, we explore how preparation and repetition gradually remove interruptions from an appointment. Secure taping is a perfect example. Spending another minute getting your setup right at the beginning can save repeated stops and adjustments throughout the set.
Taping should support your application rather than become a separate challenge before you've even started lashing.
Pro Notes
Studio Note
Don't judge your tape placement only while the client's eyes are open. Always check again once the eyes are fully closed. The outer corner in particular can change position enough to turn apparently perfect placement into tape that sits higher than intended.
Pro Note
Every time you completely adhere, lift and reposition the same piece of tape, you can affect how well it adheres afterwards. Where possible, position deliberately and secure once. If a piece is no longer holding reliably, replacing it can be better than continually adjusting it.
Inside The Set
The best taping method isn't necessarily the most advanced one. If the lower lashes remain securely isolated, the client is comfortable and your setup stays where you put it throughout the appointment, the method is doing exactly what you need it to do.
Frequently Asked Questions
What tape is best for lash extensions?
There isn't one tape that is best for every artist, client or technique. Micropore paper tape offers a lightweight and versatile option, sensitive lash tape provides a softer and more flexible working feel, and foam tape offers cushioning and the ability to customise the under-eye shape. Japanese Nichiban tapes are also popular among artists who prefer fine, precise tape for detailed work.
Is Micropore the same as paper tape?
Micropore is a 3M product name rather than the generic name for all paper tape. Traditional Micropore is a type of paper surgical tape, but other manufacturers also produce paper medical tapes with their own constructions and adhesives.
Can you use tape instead of eye pads for lash extensions?
Depending on the product and technique, some artists use suitable medical foam tape as an alternative to a conventional eye pad. Whatever material is used, the priority remains secure lower-lash isolation, complete and comfortable eye closure, and keeping the material safely away from the waterline.
Why do my eye pads keep moving during lash extensions?
Skin oils, moisture, eye shape, facial movement and pad placement can all influence how securely an eye pad stays in place. Reinforcing the pad with tape or adapting the way the lower lashes are secured can help create a more stable setup.
Why do short lower lashes keep escaping?
Very short lower lashes provide less length for a pad or tape to capture and can easily work their way free. For these clients, placing the eye pad over the short lower lashes and then reinforcing the setup with tape can provide additional security.
Why does my outer-corner tape move when the client closes their eyes?
The position of the skin and outer eye changes when the eye closes. One option is to partially position the outer piece while the eye is open, then make the final placement once the client has completely closed their eyes. This allows you to position the tape according to the eye's actual working position.
Final Thoughts
Taping is a relatively small part of a lash appointment, but getting it right can influence everything that follows. Secure lower lashes create a cleaner working area, reduce the likelihood of lower lashes entering the set and allow you to concentrate on isolation and attachment instead of continually correcting your setup.
There is no need to force the same method onto every client. Learn a reliable foundation, understand the tapes you are working with and adapt your approach according to the lashes and eye in front of you.
The best taping method is ultimately the one you don't have to think about again once you start lashing.
From The Audrey Jay Edit
The tape I reach for in my own sets is our Sensitive Lash Tape, chosen for its soft, flexible feel, secure placement and easy manipulation around the eye.
Keep Reading In The AJ Journal
Good preparation makes everything that follows easier. Continue with Why Faster Lash Artists Aren't Necessarily Rushing to explore how preparation, repetition and reducing interruptions can improve your workflow, or read Why Lash Retention Starts With Attachment, Not Adhesive for a closer look at what happens once application begins.